Armed with tips from Rita on one of her favourite cities in Spain, I arrived in Sevilla in the morning, after a very early bus ride from Olvera. I had booked a room at an airbnb recommended by Rita, just north of the city centre, but couldn’t check in til the afternoon. By this time, the heat had begun. Like 36. I wanted to make the most of the day before the real heat set in around 4pm, so I stored my bags, grabbed some breakfast and walked to the centre to see about signing up for the bikeshare system. In urban planning circles, Sevilla is known for its implementation of many kilometres of protected bike lanes in just a couple of short years, so I wanted to check them out. And there happened to be a bike share station about 2 blocks from where I was staying, right on the edge of the bike share limits.

The first station I found didn’t accept my credit card, and neither did the second. Feeling discouraged, I tracked down the customer service at city hall, and they explained to me this was a common occurrence lately and they weren’t sure how to fix it. More discouraged, I decided to try another station, and low and behold, it worked! I signed up for a week’s pass that would cover the 4 days I was there, for only 13 euros, including unlimited 30 minute rides. Google maps told me it was a 20 minute ride from the centre to my accommodation, so this seemed to work nicely.

After wandering around a bit more, I was ready to head to check in. I had originally planned on taking the bus, but now that I was set up on the bikeshare, I figured I’d try it out. Of course, this might not have been the best plan at 36 degrees with a huge backpack on and not knowing the routes….I ended up stopping en route to rest and drink the rest of my water, and restarting my 30 minutes, as there was no way I was making it within that time frame at this pace. Anyway, I arrived, and must have looked rather sweaty and red when I finally arrived at the top of the four storey apartment. I grabbed a shower, water and officially adopted siesta culture, waking up at 7pm. 

I probably should have stayed in for the night, but the corpus christi celebrations were taking place, and I’ve been having extreme cultural FOMO, so I jumped on a bike (much easier in only 30 degree weather without a backpack) and found the main square with a marching band. At 11pm I headed back as I wanted to get up early to beat the heat. And so my days in Sevilla went. Waking up at 8am to grab a quick breakfast and head on a bike to the centre, exhaustion setting in around 2pm and heading back for lunch and a siesta from 4-7 (or 8pm one day), then back out at 9pm.

Because the Corpus Christi celebrations were still taking place, I managed to get into the Cathedral for free (I generally have not been paying to enter churches, partly because I am cheap, partly because there are so many, and partly because I do not think the Catholic church deserves any more money), see more live music, and see the main processions. It also meant there were other events on, including a novice bullfight. I debated the ethics of it briefly, but curiosity overcame, and I bought at 15 euro ticket. Luckily, an American guy who had been to many bullfights, sat behind me commentating the whole thing, so I actually understood what was going on. It was quite the spectacle. Finally, about 5 bulls later, after midnight, I headed home.

My third night, I was heading in to hit up Bola’s, Sevilla’s famous ice cream that Rita had been ranting about and would not let me leave without trying, when I rode past some gardens with music playing. After my oh-so-delicious belgian chocolate and cheese and figs ice cream, I headed back to the music and discovered a free night of live flamenco. I had been wanting to see flamenco, but was turned off by the touristy offerings, and here I found a fundraiser for a local nonprofit that supported kids through teaching song and dance. I grabbed a beer and a seat. It was fantastic. I expected it to be an hour, but finally at midnight the performers said ok, this is truly the end, the only speech I understand as it was all in Spanish. On my way out I bought a ticket for the next night.

The next night I arrived at 9:30pm, after another stop at Bola’s, and the music got way at 10pm. At least in tourist venues, flamenco tends to be an hour. This show ended at 1:30am! I got back after 2am, worried it would be a bit quiet in the neighbourhood for my couple of blocks back from the bike station. But of course, I walked past kids in the playground! Ah, Spain.

Needless to say, I loved Sevilla, even if I did not do a lot of sleeping there. This seems to be a theme in the country. I think I’m understanding where Argentina gets it from.